Thomas McGill - Feb 9, 2003 12:58 pm
I researched the archives and didn't find any reference to installing an injector pump. My apologies if I missed it. I feel obligated for the support I received, so I will try to report for the benefit of other owners. Some of this is repetitive from a previous post.
This is what I did. My JM 284 tractor was smoking black smoke at all speeds. I heard a terrible grating sound, and it simply quit. After cleaning out all the diesel lines, and filters, I noticed there was no pressure at the fuel lines.
The drive gear had fallen off. Also, all three of the adjustment bolts were loose. It must have been an off day for that assembler.
I fished the nut with a magnet from the recess at the bottom of the gear housing. The noise had been the nut grating the intermediate drive gear. There did not appear to be damage.
I had to remove the radiator and battery housing to see the markings on the crankshaft pully. I used a yellow junkyard marker to lighten the markings, 0, 10,20, and 30 degrees advanced. I also put corresponding dots on the edge of the pully, so I could replace the radiator and battery frame. I removed the valve cover. I turned the crankshaft clockwise until the indicator pointed to 18 degrees advanced with the number one intake and exhaust rocker arms loose- firing position.
This was a leap of faith. The engine manual lists several degree references at different rpms. Since this is a static adjustment, and I understand the difference between the 254 and the 284 is rpm, and since mine runs at a certain rpm ( I can't remember right now if it is 2800rpm), I chose 18 degrees.
I loosened the number one, front fuel line at the injector pump, as described in the manual, and cleaned the fuel out with a pointed piece of paper towel.
I removed the gear from the timing disc, and used the timing disc on the woodruff key to turn the injector clockwise until the fuel just welled up in the cavity where the number one line connects.
I attached the gear using loctite, and secured it with the three bolts.
I turned the crankshaft pully around twice until 18 degrees came around on the firing cycle watching for the fuel to rise again at the pump. Since it was not quite in time, I made refined the adjustment. It actually ran fairly significantly out of time. I did it several more times until it I was confident the setting was repeatible each time soaking the fuel out of the cavity with a paper towel. You can mark the position of the injector pump drive gear when the fuel wells up, then continue clockwise, until the pointer indicates your choice of number of degrees. The result will be the angle the gear needs to turn relative to the plate. I hope it doesn't require moving the gear one or more tooth, but if it does, you simply do it, and try not to move the adjusting plate, turning the gear until it lands near the center of the adjusting slot.
The tractor ran very well with practically no smoke. It starts very well.
Several notes, though. This actually took three days of anguish.
1. The nut can't be tightened too tight, it seems to bind the pump. I wish there were provisions for a cotter pin.
2. The gear can't be put on connected to the timing plate because being helical it imparts a rotational force to the woodruff key, shearing it.
3. A one eighth by half inch woodruff key works well.
4. The injector pump is under positive and negative pressure, and when you loosen the adjustment screws, it may want to move, then or later. I marked the relative position before I loosened the screws.
5. With the radiator in place, it is very difficult to get a socket on the center pully nut, so it is necessary to make a flat tool 18 inches long to catch the pully mounting bolt heads, to turn the pully. I used 3/8 square tube.
6. The flat washers under the three adjusting screws are too small and thin, and deform in the slots. They should be replaced with larger diameter washers. 7. If I have time I will find a stock radi
Author: JWSmith Reply
Re: Re: Timing a 224/How too.....? { 4 / 4 }
I recently re-set the timing on my JM-284 with the Y385 engine. Not sure how much different your engine is but mine was pretty simple to do. Mine had good marks on the crank pulley but I had to remove the radiator to see them clearly, and removing the radiator means removing the battery box first. It also has marks on the flywheel but they were marked in Chinese so I didn't want to trust them at first. I also had to remove the fan to gain clear visual access to the crank pulley. Once you get to where you can see the timing marks, release the compression and you can rotate the engine with a socket on the crankpulley nut. At the injector pump, remove the line from the number 1 injector pump, rotate the engine in the direction of normal rotation, and observe the fuel in the injector pump. When it just starts to rise, immediately stop rotating the engine and observe the timing marks. They should line up with the correct mark at the pointer. Try it several times before adjusting anything. I used a Q-tip to swab the fuel out of the plunger each time. If it needs adjusted, remove the front cover from the injector drive housing, and loosen the three adjusting bolts that hold the gear on the pump drive. Rotate the drive slightly whichever way looks right, and re-check. If you went the wrong way, it will be worse, so adjust it the other way until it is right. I checked it several times each time that I adjusted it, just to be sure. Then I carefully marked the flywheel in American so as to be able to check the timing in the future without pulling the radiator (the flywheel mark was in the correct place BTW). Really not much more difficult than timing a car engine, most of the time was consumed just getting the parts out of the way and putting them back. This is a good time to check out your hoses and belts too.
Joe
Author: ARTRAC Reply
Re: Timing a 224/How too.....? { 6 / 7 }
{ In reply to F100Panel }
We have done this pretty much as Joe descibes only I use a small inspection mirror to read the marks on the pully without removing the battery and radiator. In the end you sort of fine tune by sound and smoke. If it is not smoking and making a mild diesel knock at idle you are likely pretty close. If the enine is "too quiet" than it needs to be advanced and if it is knocking too much it needs to be retarded.
If it sounds good and is not smoking heavily, than It may be that you just need more break in time.
You mention doing a few things to get it to start quicker, curious what they were.
It would be nice if there was a sensor that could feel the pulse of the fuel and trigger a timing light so we could do a dynamic check. I believe the specs change with engine RPM.
